An enormous menu that actually works
Serving: South East Asian, western, Italian
Atmospherics: The Amici of old has suddenly metamorphosed into a far more attractive version, with excellent food. Whereas there were formerly no doors, now there are glass partitions with black frames and a couple of shelves laden with mainly Italian ingredients, in the manner of a deli. You can elect to sit ‘outside’ the eatery at small tables that are reminiscent of pavement seating in an Italian trattorio. I did quail when the menu was brought to me: it is dauntingly large and has close to 100 dishes. However, each and every one of my orders was spectacular and true to its provenance, so my fears were unfounded.
Table talk: I have eaten at several branches of Amici and have never been particularly impressed but Andrea’s Eatery is the crowning glory of them all. My artisanal Margherita pizza (Rs 495) was oval rather than round and must rate as one of the best pizzas in the city, with a simple tomato sauce and pools of mozzarella. Fans of desi ingredients as pizza toppings will be gladdened by butter chicken pizza and paneer tikka pizza (which I didn’t try). From Anjuna Beach came fresh butter garlic prawns (Rs 835). Like all the plates at this restaurant, you get a colourful salad (different with each order) and a carb component. In this case, it was potato chips. The impressive part is that each component has been given as much attention as the main ingredient. Kai Yang (Rs 695) was the preparation I liked the best: a large joint of chicken that had been grilled and then served on a bed of rice with batons of cucumbers and fresh sprigs of cilantro, together with a lip-smacking sauce of lime juice, palm sugar, chillies muddled with herbs. I ordered Persian lamb barg with sumac rice with trepidation: it is not a cuisine that has much representation in Delhi. However, the sumac was used with a light touch and tomatoes doused in mint exactly the way it would be in Iran, with a battened fillet of lamb grilled.
Plus and minus: Service is the weakest link. While I appeared to have been served by the only friendly employee in the restaurant, the ‘managers’ were a curious lot who were better suited to a more desi style of restaurant.
Must try: gado gado salad, Vietnamese rice paper rolls; Istanbul manti
Food: 4.00; Service: 3.00; Décor 3.50
F 48-49 First floor, Select Citywalk, Saket
Tel: 8588823873, 41041465
Open from 11.30 am to 11 pm
Meal for two: Rs 2,000