Of Fan, Khajla and Puffs

Light as air and as flaky as a snowdrop – that’s fan for you, never mind the curious name. They’re made by traditional bakers in pockets of Old Delhi, almost always by the Muslim community, and tend to be concentrated in Muslim-dominated localities – Kallan Masjid near Turkman Gate, Pahadi Bhojla and Matia Mahal. They…

Mumbai versus Delhi

Food writer Roshni Bajaj Sanghvi once wrote a piece in Mumbai Boss, a blog about that city, about why she thinks Delhi’s food scores over Mumbai’s. Well, guess what! Here’s why I think Mumbai’s food scene is streets ahead of ours in Delhi. I’m going to have to name communities, but it’s not because I’m…

Yellow Brick Road

Twenty years old and still going strong Serves: The food of the Raj Atmospherics: It was a sensation twenty years ago, when the coffee shop of The Ambassador Hotel came to life. Who had ever heard of a young, vibrant space that celebrated life? Other coffee shops (as all-day diners used to be called) were…

Dining with the Jalalis

“Our food has influences from Delhi and Lucknow, Rampur being equidistant from both cities,” Osama Jalali greets us at the door of the restaurant where his festival is in full swing. The Jalalis are from the principality of Rampur; in fact, Osama’s wife Nazia Khan is a Rohilla Pathan, a community well represented in the…

The Hong Kong Club

A cross between dining and nightclub Serves Cantonese, with a twist Atmospherics: One would not have thought that the great civilization that China is, would be up for a bit of tweaking of its food, but that is exactly what is happening in Delhi. The good news is that it is barely 5% of this…

Ziu Revisited

If only all Delhi’s restaurants were this inspired Serves Modern Thai Atmospherics: In an ideal world, all restaurants would be built to accommodate only as many diners as the chef felt capable of cooking for, and all chefs would own their restaurants, besides heading the kitchen. That is what the chef-owner of Ziu does: manages…

Tres: The Second Coming

Effortless excellence in this chef-led restaurant Serves European Atmospherics: A bar with high chairs around it, a private dining room, an open-air enclosure near a tree, regular tables, chairs and sofas – and all this is on the ground floor. The music – Spanish and Portuguese ageless classics – and the fact that at least…

Kampai

A piece of Japan in our city Serves traditional Japanese Atmospherics: On the ground floor of the spanking new Worldmark 1, Kampai is akin to a trip into an izakaya in Japan, so startling is the resemblance, but then, the young proprietress has been visiting Japan since the age of 7 and has wanted to…

Omya

Indian flavours with London polish Serves Traditional Indian with modern presentations Atmospherics: There are few takers for Indian food for lunch, I have always noticed. That is the reason why Indians choose to dine at threesixty degrees next door, leaving the overseas guests in the hotel to dine at Omya. A vast pity that we…

Dining Out in Chennai

If there ever was a model restaurant city in India, it would have to be Chennai. It has always been thought of as uber traditional, but in the last three years, the number of hotels, their grandeur and the sheer wealth of food and beverage concepts puts every other city in India to shame. One…