One underrated gem in Millennium City
Serves American, European, seafood
Atmospherics: I have been visiting this restaurant cum wine bar ever since its inception 11 years ago and one puzzle, whose answer has eluded me, is why it has remained so consistently under the radar. After all, Gurugram has frenetic bars for the young and young at heart, mom and pop eateries for a homely meal, more Japanese and Korean restaurants than you will ever hear about in a year and cafes aplenty, but L’Angoor is more or less unique. It is a wine bar, with a pleasantly masculine appeal; the open kitchen dispenses American and traditional European food, mostly all of a higher standard than many of the competitors. So, why is the restaurant never more than a quarter full when I have visited? The only reason I can think of is the zany name. As a friend explains, “It is difficult to tell someone you’ve dined in L”Angoor!” However, you can drive right up to the restaurant, it is suitable for formal/business get-togethers and the chef can add spice to your food if so required. And the music played is French, Spanish, Portuguese and Arabic, at a comfortable decibel level.
Table talk: shrimp remoulade (Rs 450) is good value for money: you get a generous amount of plump, juicy shrimps napped in a salad dressing with lettuce and a quartered, boiled egg. L’Angoor chicken with mustard infused Cabernet Sauvignon (Rs 500) is a creation of the chef, perhaps to cater to the desi palate. Full of strong flavours and a hint of gravy, it has perhaps been created for those who want a break from subtlety. Nominally western, yes, but the mustard and the wine scream for attention. Scallops and prawns served with linguine in cream sauce (Rs 1400) was beautifully presented and makes a filling main course. It would not be served in an Italian restaurant because of the combination of dairy and seafood in a single dish, but L’Angoor is avowedly not Italian. The one vegetarian preparation I tried: vegetable terrine with pine nuts (Rs 650) had no texture or gelatine and could hardly hold its shape. I would not call it a terrine.
Plus and minus: There are sandwiches and burgers as well as meals. The wine list has been put together by someone who knows what they’re doing.
Must try: lamb kofta with Kashmiri rice; baked enchiladas with Cheddar and salsa; fish paupiette with vegetables.
Food: 3.50; Service: 3.75; Décor: 3.75
Lobby Level Tower C, Global Business Park, MG Road
Open from 12 noon to 3 pm; 7 to 11 pm
Credit cards accepted; alcohol served
Meal for two: Rs 4,000