Foxtrot

Yet another, hitherto unseen, face of desi food Serves: Indian food with an Azure twist Atmospherics: The partners of this remarkable restaurant company, Rahul Khanna and Kabir Suri along with their food director Janti Duggal have been bringing forth one sassy concept after another, from Mamagoto to Sly Granny to Hotel Delmaar and others. The…

Daryaganj

“Where are you?” “In Daryaganj” Serves: Culinary gems from Undivided Punjab Atmospherics: Butter chicken, dal makhni, chicken pakoras and mutton keema kaleji have collectively been called a number of names, from Mughlai (patently inaccurate) to North Indian (far too vague). At last, in Daryaganj – which is nowhere near the eponymous street –  is an…

Santrampur: Dining with the Royal Family

In a supremely secluded corner of Gujarat, the 9 gun salute state of Santrampur occupies a rather interesting site in the intersection between three different states: Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and Gujarat.  The present ruler and his wife, HH Maharana Paranjayaditya Parmar and Maharani Mandakini Kumari, are the latest in a dynasty that has been in…

Plats

Simple yet sophisticated: both the interiors and the food Serves European Atmospherics: step off what passes as a pavement, and you’re inside this restaurant that is simple, elegant and charming, without a single unnecessary flourish. I have been to similar restaurants in Paris and London, where the accessories have been kept to a bare minimum…

Ek Bar, Doosri Bar

One of the few genuinely neighbourhood bars in the city Serves: Indian-inspired small bites Atmospherics: Ek Bar has been around for a while and has changed avatars off and on. This time around, the interiors remain the same, but the food has been given the best make-over possible. Far from being overly pretentious, it now…

ROOH

One of the few chef-led restaurants in the city Serves moidern International with Indian touches Atmospherics: with a plethora of rooms that lead off from one another, ROOH, run by Chef Sujan Sarkar, presently based in the US, is one of the more pleasant, relaxing spaces in the business. It is ideal for a quiet…

Outside Influences on Indian Food

In a country whose area spans 1.24 million square miles, it is a foregone conclusion that there have been, and continue to be, a multitude of influences from outside the country as well as from within, in terms of ingredients, preparations, vegetables, meats, combinations, spices and cooking methods. Furthermore, in our ancient civilization, the notion…

Kimono Club

All the trappings of a winner: glamour and location Serves: traditional and modern Japanese and Chinese Atmospherics: Whether you enter by the outside staircase that leads from the driveway or from the central lobby, down the stairs or the lift, the Kimono Club is a work of art: a backlit bar on one side and…

Mealability

Kashmiri food in sylvan surroundings Serves: the food of Jammu and Kashmir Atmospherics: though the address of J&K House is 5, Prithvi Raj Road, the entrance is from the Amrita Shergill gate. Whether you are allowed to park inside the compound or on the road is largely a function of the security ruling du jour.…

Cafe Lungta

  A would-be hidden joint in a neighbourhood market but for the attached bar Serves: Nepalese and Tibetan Atmospherics: Sector 15 has none of the cachet of say, Sector 29 in Gurugram. Electrical repair and dry-cleaner stores suggest that it used to be a strictly neighbourhood convenience for take-away joints and grocery stores. Seven years…