Bo Tai - Marryam H Reshii

Atmospherics: On the second floor of a building that overlooks the Qutab Minar, in line with the fashion district of Delhi, Bo Tai is the latest brand from Massive Restaurants, this one being a modern Thai restaurant with the bar as a focus. The space is filled with natural light and the music is played at a pleasant decibel level. Bo Tai is a tribute to the kitchen and its excellence rather than just a party place (although it would be an extremely attractive venue for a party). The name is taken further by the metal bow-ties that the staff wears as badges. The plates have all been custom-made for the restaurant and all show off the food to perfection. The valet parking is efficient, but do be aware that the cars are parked some way off from the restaurant and take a while to arrive.

Table talk: The menu has several dishes on it that are vegetarian-compliant, but that is not to take away from the delicious seafood and red meat options. Roast coconut, fried onion, avocado and raw mango salad (Rs 495) is a brilliant, tongue-tingling salad with a dressing that is sweet, sour, spicy and fragrant with herbs. Because of the sheer quality of the soft, buttery avocadoes, this is a not to be missed dish. Like all great salads, it is the interplay of textures that works here. In a regular Thai restaurant, yam thalai (Rs 675) would be a regular seafood salad. In Bo Tai, it is the conventional salad but served in tiny noodle cups, providing a textural contrast, besides being a visual delight. That is what Bo Tai is about: the delightful little touches. In fact, by the time you read this, there should be a new addition to the menu: avocado carpaccio (Rs 625) a one of a kind surprise that is a buttery-soft slice of avocado drizzled over with pearls of aceto balsamico. Bo Tai is not only about nouvelle dishes, however. Its

Massaman curry (Rs 795 for lamb) is as fragrant as anything you would get in a good restaurant in Thailand. Eaten with jasmine rice, it makes for a traditional main course.

Plus and minus: The menu is divided into two parts: the Thai and the western with subtle Thai touches: a clever way of catering to all tastes.

Must try: scallops, masago, chili and lime; Chiang Mai sausage; garlic rubbed Portobello