Know Your Kebabs

For a food that is believed to have started when hungry soldiers skewered chunks of meat on their swords and held them over wood fires, the kebab has spread to countries as far afield as Greece with its gyros and Japan with its yakitori. Here are a few pointers: Whether they are made from chunk…

Ladakhi Food in Bikaner House

The one common refrain – should that be the only common refrain – of the politicians of Ladakh and Jammu provinces of J&K is to shout themselves hoarse that the region of Kashmir is receiving the giant’s share of — Here follows a litany of complaints about how little tourist infrastructure reaches Ladakh and Jammu,…

Ladakh

Lakakhis are fond of comparing their cuisine with that of Tibet and they have a point. A huge range of soups, whose names change whether they have been made with barley and stock, plain stock, fortified with hand-made pasta or mince-filled dumplings; hardly any greens and just a few types of breads – it is…

Invasion of the Food Brigade

It’s reasonable to expect that expat chefs are essential if the quality of five-star cuisine is to remain international When chef Gabriele Montevechhio of Hyatt Regency’s La Piazza is called out of the kitchen by guests, he generally knows what is ,in store for him. “I get so many puzzled enquiries from guests wanting to…

Beyond Wazwan

Is there a conspiracy against everyday Kashmiri cooking? It would certainly seem so — all that is known about Kashmiri food in general outside the state is a handful of dishes that are prepared for banquets, ristas and gushtabas among them. All Kashmiris, be they Muslim or Pandit, love their meat, and mutton appears daily…

The Kashmiri Way: Banquets

What does a meeting of political bigwigs, an office picnic and an Eid celebration have in common? If all three are held in Kashmir, the answer is wazwan, the traditional banquet. In conservative societies such as Kashmir’s, all occupations are hereditary. Carpenters’ sons pick up the hammer and saw, barbers’ sons will wield the scissors…

What’s Cooking in Kashmir

There is a wedding in the family, and all day long the courtyard is the scene of activity. A party of professional male cooks spread themselves out under a colourful canopy. The head cook cuts up a whole sheep with a set of wicked looking knives. Nearby, a log fire is being lighted, and an…