Blurb: So close to T3 as to be part of its lounge
Atmospherics: the very last hotel in Aerocity, closest to the International Airport, someone has very craftily designed not only the space but the menu too. The space is vast, disappointingly monochromatic, and as comfortable as a business lounge: upholstered chairs, squat sofas to sink into and overhead lights. The menu lists each dish not by country of origin but by nearest airport: a quirky idea and one that works well given the short distance from the airport (DEL). There is an open kitchen, and very occasionally, the exhaust system has been known to pack up, with unpleasant results all around. Fortunately, such instances are getting increasingly rare and the hotel really does appear to be coming into its own. It was going to be a Dusit when it was built, but it became a Roseate with admirable aplomb. If the owner, Ankur Bhatia of the Bird Group plays his cards right, the brand, presently just two hotels old, could be a major force among Indian-owned hotel chains.
Table talk: The menu contains western, Chinese and Indian dishes, of which western is the best by a wide margin. My companion’s compressed melon salad (Rs 850) had green apple, melon, goat cheese and croutons with quinoa. The whole dish was a blaze of colour like most of the other food served in DEL and a play on textures. Though the head chef was not on duty, our meal was sensational: kudos to the level of training. My own beetroot and burrata salad (Rs 1000) was spectacular because of the fresh burrata from Flanders Dairy that melted in the mouth, while the beetroot coulis and pesto counterpointed it in colour brilliantly. Don’t miss this one. Black linguine vongole (Rs 1400) too had a startling presentation, thanks to the glorious clam shells in the pasta plate. The squid ink linguine supplied the flavour. Tortellini (Rs 1200) with chevre and sun-dried tomato with salted butter sauce was a masterpiece of both colour as well as flavour: no meat-eater would relegate it to the ghas-phoos category because of the lack of meat or seafood.
Plus and minus: the service is friendly and helpful without staff hanging around the table; but though the western food is sublime, the lone Indian dish I ordered (quinoa biryani) was an overcooked, oily abomination.
Must try: lumaconi and cheese, barigoule of artichoke, yin yang.
Food: 4, Service: 3.50, Décor: 3.50
Roseate House, Asset 10, Hospitality District, Aerocity, New Delhi
Meal for two: Rs 3,500
Alcohol served; credit cards accepted
Open 24 hours