Cuisines of the French and Italian Rivieras
A well-appointed restaurant with touches of genius in the French and Italian menu
A young Indian chef with international experience, a show kitchen with a Moltini range (the Lamborghini of kitchen equipment that costs around the same as the car) and contemporary style.
Atmospherics: Off the lobby of Pullman Hotel, with a wine room at one end, the rather uncomfortable water tumblers make a colour statement on the table: splotches of scarlet in an otherwise sober restaurant. Oh, and the Moltini is red too
Food Talk: Seared scallop and king prawn, pistachio puree and Noilly Prat fumet (Rs 1,100) is a class apart. Be warned that the king prawn is just the essence of the sauce. It is a bit of a cruel trick, because the cleaned shell of the prawn is the garnish in the bowl! However, for the delicate flavour of the sauce that is as light as air, the rather pricey dish is worth it. As is salted grape and foie gras parfait with pickled chanterelles and orange jelly (Rs 975). The plate is ‘painted’ with a black olive pesto for colour, and that, more than the chanterelles that don’t, in my opinion, take to being pickled, is the flavour enhancer. Usually, foie gras is paired with a very sweet ingredient. In this case, thinly sliced grapes are salted for a more savoury appeal.
Macerated green asparagus and ruby grapefruit salad, smoked curd (Rs 800) is a great choice for vegetarians. The mildly astringent asparagus combines well with the acidic grapefruit and the smoked curd is a masterful touch. Asparagus seems to be a favourite ingredient in the kitchen: green asparagus risotto and macadamia nut crumble (Rs 800/1,150 depending on whether you are having a starter or a main course) is a rich, creamy textured risotto with a hint of crunch in the nut crumble. Even the other great risotto, the wild porcini risotto with sherry mousse and black truffle oil (Rs 800/1,150) is an opulent dish of intensely umami flavours, perfect especially for vegetarians. Manjari chocolate cremeux with raspberry jelly and white chocolate milk (Rs 725) isn’t a dessert. It’s an indulgence.
Plus and minus: The one disappointment was the twice cooked beef rib eye with onion soubise (Rs 2,950) that was too tough and well-cooked in spite of ordering it rare. In general, don’t expect dumbed down food. Here, ingredients are treated with the utmost respect.
Must try: Cherry tomato risotto with Ligurian olives; warm chestnut fettuccine with girolles, black trumpet and truffle veloute; best end of lamb with walnut biscuit and quinoa with root vegetables.
Ratings: Food 4, Service 3.50, Ambience: 4
MG Road, Sector 26, Delhi-Gurgaon border,
Tel: 0124 499 2000
Timings: 7 pm to 11.30 pm
Meal for two: Rs 6,000
Credit cards, wine list
