Finding Kashmiri Food in Delhi
French, in its simplest, most uncomplicated avatar
Overlooking a park, it is a tiny piece of Paris in our chaotic city. The dainty tables and chairs are exactly as you’d find them in Paris: effortlessly stylish and the opposite end of the spectrum from grand and showy. Both times I have visited, I have seen yellow roses adorn the vases at each table. The menu is chalked up on two blackboards, one written in French and the other in English. Because they are not clearly visible from all angles, the staff or the young lady who owns the bistro carries the blackboard over to each table. There are a number of French and French-speaking guests who findLe Bistro a home away from home. And it is a definite plus point to see the owner so hands-on in her restaurant, taking orders, explaining the food, clearing plates. The thought process behind the menu is that it has to be inexpensive, unpretentious and locally grown. You will hardly find imported ingredients here. Also, the menu is written on a blackboard because it keeps changing by the week if not by the day
If the term French food puts you off, don’t be. The food is simple and packed with flavour. In fact, the only bone one can pick with Le Bistro is its heavy bias towards vegetarians. The celadon salad (Rs 200) is an unmissable masterpiece of green ingredients cut to the size of peas. Thus, zucchini, pistachios, green apples, grapes, cucumbers are all cut to the same size and drizzled over with a dressing of pea puree and mint oil. If any one dish defines Le Bistro and its approach to food, it is this: simple, slightly unlikely ingredients, paired together with flair and style, and sold at an unbeatable price – the pistachios are deep green and packed with flavour. The cauliflower as a risotto (Rs 500) was the most wittily crafted dish I’ve come across recently. Cauliflower was cut finely to approximate the texture of Arborio rice (yes!) and cooked in a flavourful stock, just like risotto. The pan fried calamaris (Rs 350) were napped in a tomato and olive sauce cooked Provencal-style.
Must try: Confit pork belly, chicken liver pate, chocolate mousse
Food: 3.50; Service:3.50; Décor: 3.50
A 57-59 Moolchand Market, Defence Colony
Tel: 011 46780080
Open from 12 noon to 3 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm
Credit cards accepted; alcohol served
Meal for two: Rs 1800
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