360 degrees
The flavours of Hyderabad delivered to your house
Intro: Sassy Begum is as much about the micro flavours of one Hyderabadi family’s table as it is about the cuisine of the aristocratic families of Hyderabad. Sassy Begum refers to a particular lady who married into the well-known Hassan clan and who learnt how to cook their family specialities after her marriage. Though she is no more, the dishes that she was famous for live on in the menu of the home delivery service that has been named for her. I must say that I did not know any of this when I ordered (also, I ordered from the number on the website rather than from an aggregator) and was connected to a member of the family, rather than an anonymous order taker. Being a commercial enterprise, cognizance has been taken of the ‘odd man out’ in a group who does not want the food on offer: the Nawabi aloo and paneer biryani cater for those tastes.
Table talk: It was the velvety texture of the shikampur kebabs (Rs 425) and the perfect amount of spicing that took me by storm. In a commercial kitchen, the temptation to add ‘just a little bit more’ is usually overpowering. Not here: all the food was spiced just as it should be – a rare delight. Perhaps biryani is their single most ordered preparation, because of the sheer range of options. Biryani for one (two botis), handi biryani for 2-3 (600 grams) and for 4-5 people (1200 grams) are all offered, the latter two being served in dough-sealed clay handis. The options are vegetable, egg, paneer, chicken 65, Dilli chicken, chicken dum and mutton dum. The mutton dum biryani (Rs 565 for 600 grams) that I ordered was fragrant, the rice was tender and redolent with the stock – basmati is used here rather than the more common sela, and it shows. The rice had a myriad shades from cream to dark brown and the chunks of mutton were succulent. One of the finest biryanis this city has to offer. Dum ka murgh (Rs 265/475 for half/full) is chicken cooked in a lagan with yogurt and nuts and helped along with a lighted charcoal that imparts its fragrance to the dish. Sensational. As was the mutton haleem (Rs 645) served with accompaniments.
Plus and minus: The care that has been taken over the menu, portion size and the quality is textbook perfection.
Must try: Tamatar kut, mirchi ka salan, khubani ka meetha
Food: 4.25; Delivery: 4.00
Call: 9810799016, 8881172173
Timing: 11.30 am to 11 pm
Meal for two: Rs 1500
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