A new high-end restaurant that takes Indian cuisine to another level
What would you call an Indian restaurant that doesn’t smell of pickle and that doesn’t have dal on its menu? You could call it Varq, for a start.
The Taj Mahal Hotel’s latest offering is a restaurant that offers a complete reinterpretation of Indian food. The best part is that it does so in contemporary surroundings and there’s something for everyone, whether you want a completely western dish with only a hint of Indian spicing or regular North Indian cuisine, distinguished only by its pre-plated presentation. As a general guide, the starters are more ‘innovative than most of the main courses.
Stand-out menu
I was intrigued by haleem aur kebabs (rs. 1050), which included chicken and lamb galauti kebabs and chicken and lamb haleem. I have to say that the lamb kebab and haleem worked better, but that could be because of the familiarity factor. A customer who is not familiar with Indian cuisine would have a more open mind.
The other starter that is a dramatic departure from the norm is Liver Three Ways (Rs 875), which includes small portions of goose, mutton and chicken liver with orange marmalade, orange chutney and mango relish. Compared to the goose liver, which has obviously been imported, the other two were rather gamey: more garlic would not be amiss. However, like the rest of the menu, the Taj and especially corporate executive chef Hemant Oberoi deserve plaudits for taking Indian cuisine to another level altogether.
Spice route
For the main course, my martabaan ka meat (Rs 950) was served in an old-fashioned pickle jar. Although the Taj is probably trying desperately not to stick to formulaic recipes, the lamb tasted of traditional pickling spices.
The hotel itself thinks that the decor of the restaurant is the star of the show. I disagree. To my mind, the real winner is the humble Indian spice. Each dish has a different blend of spices; there is no over-kill and each individual spice stands out. Kalonji is the hero of the martabaan ka meat just as tamarind is the champion of the khatti dal.
What really sets Varq apart is the pairing of — no, not wine and food – – but tea and food. Each course has been specifically tested to be served with a different tea, which could range from white tea served hot to a blend of rose petals, cinnamon and cloves served chilled.
The dessert counter, consisting of a live counter at one end, prepares East-meets-West desserts on order.
The Taj Mahal Hotel, 1, Mansingh Road, Tel: 23026162
Timings: 12:30 pm to 3:30 pm and 7 pm to 11:30 pm
Average cost of a meal for two: Rs. 5,000/-
Credit cards accepted; alcohol served
