Go Goenka
When you come from a Kolkata-based family that is famous for cooking, and the gastronomically inclined in-laws hail from Kolkata via Churu, cooking professionally as a passion is a natural corollary. That is what Priti Goenka has been doing, ever since shifting to Delhi. Her forte? Marwari food that has the flavours of the desert, startling in their intensity. She cooks from her kitchen at home, needs at least 24 hours notice and, for weddings, requires around a week’s notice.
Some things I’ve tried from her extensive menu include Kalmi Vadas (Rs 24 each) that are crisp, deep-fried spiced besan batons that are served with a completely addictive garlic chutney. The best part about her Dahi Vadas (Rs 44 each) is that their texture is suitably coarse and the dahi is garnished with a mint and 
coriander chutney that has no sweetness. The average halwai, by contrast, grinds his urad dal out of all texture and spikes up the dahi with a gratingly sweet chutney. Her Kanji Vada (Rs 32 each) is served in a sweet-sour thin gravy. It is probably a Marwari staple, but it is virtually unknown in this great city of ours. Each of these items needs a minimum of 20 pieces per order.
In addition to these, Priti does a truly memorable Khasta Kachori with a filling of either peas or dal (Rs 30 each). I prefer the dal filling, but only because the green pea version militates against the stark spirit of the Rajasthan desert whence her, and other, families originated. If you crave for well-made kachoris with millions of flaky layers, your search ends here: Rajasthani kachoris are simply not available here. Kachoris can stay for 4-5 days, as 
can all her other snacks. On special request, she can half-fry a few items, so that you can keep them in your freezer and re-fry them when required, thus extending the shelf-life.
Some of her other snacks include Palak ki Chaat (Rs 780 per platter), Pao Bhaji (Rs 78 per piece) , Matra Chaat (Rs 850 per dish) and Mumbaiya Vada Pao (Rs 58 per piece), none of which I have tried.
Because I needed to try out only two main courses, I had to pass Paneer Kofta in Fresh Orange Gravy (Rs 860 per kg/16 pieces approx) and Saffron Almond Biryani (Rs 1080 per dish) up. Instead, I ordered Rajasthani Gatte ka Saag (Rs 720 per kg) and Saangar ki Sabzi (Rs 1,000 per kg). The tiny gatte are the softest you’ll encounter in Delhi and the dahi gravy, flecked with dry methi, has a delightful tang. Saangar (no kair – the berries that usually go with this dried desert vegetable) has an extraordinarily intense taste that years of eating this dish all over Rajasthan’s restaurants had not prepared me for.
However, it is Priti’s mithai that is the most professional. Whether it is the Kesariya Boondi (Rs 600 per kg) made from coarsely pounded almonds with an optional centre of pista lauj or an unusual Baked Notun Gurer Sandesh with Gond and Badam (Rs 1000), her mithais have a professional touch.
Vital Stats
Tel: 9810052294, 9811609334
Orders to be collected from: A 41/5 DLF Phase 1
All orders require at least 24 hours advance notice
Large party catering orders require 2-3 days
Vegetarian food only
